| Cheaper
and Easier XBox RF (Radio Frequency) Remote Power On/Off Mod (v0.2)
Thanks To Xbox-scene.com
Tutorial written by: MomDad on #xbins
EFNet (http://www.xbins.org)
Last edited: September 15, 2003
Overview:
Back again with a new, cheaper and much easier method to go about
doing my original mod from several months ago (XBox $10 RF (Radio
Frequency) 150' Range Remote Power On/Off Mod (v0.1)).
Shortly after showing my original method, I re-thought the process
and components and figured out a much easier way to do it. This
new method completely does away with the need for a relay, voltage
regulator, optional batteries, etc. as outlined in my previous method,
and is now much much simpler to perform.
As with the old method, not only can you use the tiny doorbell
chime remote, but you can still also program the RF frequency into
most RF learning remotes , to be able to power on and off the system
from your main home theatre remote.
*Note: This mod can be used in conjunction with the XIR Mod (IR
Power On/Off), with zero conflicts. In fact, in one of my boxes
I have both a XIR and my RF mod joined together for enhanced power
switching flexibility!
*Note 2: Performing this mod does *not* require you to remove the
motherboard of the front panel from the XBox. (just happened that
I had my mobo and front panel removed in the pictures while I did
this because I was also working on another fancy mod at the same
time)
Required Parts List:
- Wireless Doorbell (the type that uses 2 'C' batteries)
- Wire (24awg/28awg works best)
- Solder*
- Heatshrink Tubing or Electrical Tape*
Optional Parts List:
- Small Plastic Project Box (if you wish to place the receiver
PCB inside for protection)
Tools:
- Soldering Iron*
- Screwdriver
- Voltmeter (optional, if you want to test the voltages to verify)
* This mod can also be done in a completely solderless manner by
splicing in the - speaker lead to wire 1 of the front panel yellow
wires

Procedure:
Head on over to your local Home Depot or hardware store and pick
yourself up a cheap Wireless Doorbell (~$10). Make sure it's the
kind that uses 2 'C' batteries for the receiver (a battery is usually
included for the remote transmitter). Note: you don't actually need
to buy 2 'C' batteries, since they're not actually used in the mod.

For this mod I used a Zenith SL-6140-A 2-Note Wireless Chime Kit.
It has a 100' range (works through walls, people, cats, etc.), 128
selectable frequencies to prevent interference with other RF devices/the
PSU, and 3 selectable tunes. With this sucker you can turn on and
off your XBox from different rooms if you so desire.
First things first -- set the frequency. The transmitter and receiver
both have jumpers for selecting the frequency. I left them at the
default setting, but you might have to change these depending on
if you get any type of interference from other RF devices nearby,
or if you experience any wierdness with the mod not powering off
(the XBox PSU/compnents can cause interference). Instructions are
included in the package showing how to change the frequency. Just
be sure to set both the transmitter and receiver to the same frequency.

Next is the selectable tunes. The unit has 3 different tune settings
-- "DING", "DING-DONG", and "Westminster".
In this case we want to go with the "DING", as we only
require a single voltage pulse to turn on or off the XBox. "DING-DONG"
sends 2 pulses and would turn on and off the XBox in one shot, which
we wouldn't want. "Westminster", well, don't even try
it, unless you want to kill the box :). The jumpers for the ring
selection are only in the transmitter unit. For the Zenith model,
to get the "DING" tune, you must move one jumper into
location 8.
Now it's time to get to work! At this point, just to be sure that
the unit was working, I changed the jumpers to the "DING"
setting, and popped in 2 'C' batteries, hit the button and sure
and sure she DING'd :)
The main reason for using the 2 'C' battery type unit over the
3 'AA' unit in my old method is that it does away with any need
for a relay and/or voltage regulator/batteries, since this unit
only requires 3v to operate, and we're conveniently provided with
3.3v STB (Standby power when the XBox is turned off) from the XBox
Power Supply Unit. Perfect, thanks Bill!

Next you'll want to unscrew and open up the receiver unit. Once
open, unscrew the PCB from the shell and snip the + (red) and -
(black) leads at the point where they connect to the battery posts.
Depending on the spot where you mount the PCB inside your XBox,
you may want to extend the length of the + red and - black leads
to more easily reach the power supply connector.

If this point, if you have your XBox open and nearby, you can test
that it still works by wedging the + and - leads into your XBox
PSU (the color of the STB lead may vary depending on your XBox version,
but in this case it's the Purple lead, on others it's Brown). Once
the leads are wedged in, hit the remote button and you should hear
a nice "DING".

Now snip the yellow leads going to the speaker. You can completely
snip off the positive + speaker lead right down to the PCB, since
we only actually need the negative - speaker lead. On the PCB it's
written which speaker lead is +/-. You may also want to extend the
length of the - speaker lead to more easily reach the front panel.
(in my case, I have it going to a mini molex connector, since I
did away with the entire front panel for the showcase system I was
working on -- more on that another time :)
Normally, when you press the power button on your XBox, all that
is happening is that a signal is being grounded, thereby telling
the XBox to turn on or off. So by connecting the - speaker lead
to the GND side of the power button, we're essentially giving the
XBox an alternate, hands-free GND source.
We're in the home-stretch now!

Now we want to solder that - speaker lead to the bottom pin of
the front panel's incoming leads, or the bottom-left pin of the
XBox power button microswitch on the backside of the front panel
PCB (you don't need to remove the front panel to access that pin,
just happened that I had mine out while doing this mod). Also, as
mentioned in the beginning, you can opt to do this as a completely
solderless mod by simply splicing in the - speaker lead into wire
1 of the front panel yellow wire harness -- splice, twist the wires,
stick on some heatshrink or electrical tape and whammo!
Could... it... really... be... THAT simple? Hell yeah! You're done
:)
Double-check to make sure your - black lead is wedged into one
of the black leads, and the + red lead is wedged into the purple/brown
on the XBox PSU connector, and that your - speaker lead is soldered
snugly to the front panel.
Now for the moment of truth! Plug in the XBox, pick up the doorbell
remote, and give 'er a press -- the XBox will power on! Get to the
dashboard, hit the remote button again and the XBox will power off!
Don't get too excited and start pressing it on and off too quickly
or you'll wreak havoc on the HD just as you would if you powered
on and off your computer rapidly. Go to the bathroom or to the kitchen
for a snack and give it a press :)
Reassemble the XBox and you're good to go!
Mounting:
In terms of mounting the PCB inside the XBox, you fit it underneath
the DVD (can even stick it to the bottom of the DVD with a piece
of double-sided tape) I chose to glue on small piece of foam to
the bottom of the PCB so as to avoid it shorting out on the motherboard
or anything below it. You may also opt to put the receiver PCB in
a small plastic project box that you can pick up at most electronic
components shops.
Additional Notes:
After having done my original mod, some people have reported that
while the XBox always powers on, intermittently it will not power
off on the first press of the button. This may be a result of interference
from the XBox motherboard/PSU. In this case, try changing the jumper
settings (remember you have 128 selectable codes!) to see if that
helps. Otherwise, you can extend the length of the antenna on the
PCB. Simply solder on a length of wire to the little "leg"
shown in the picture below. Then snake the wire around the inside
perimeter of your XBox between the plastic shell and the metal shielding.

In Closing:
The little doorbell remote unit works a treat when you're lying
in bed or on the couch and don't feel like getting up or walking
over to turn on/off the XBox. The remote's PCB is tiny enough that
it could even potentially be modded to mount inside one of the regular
big XBox controllers with some dremelling of a memcard slot along
with a small microswitch a la the other "controller reset switch"
mods. And if you happen to have an RF "Learning Remote"
for your home theatre, you can program in the frequency and power
you XBox and all other components from a single remote.
Enjoy your RF wireless freedom!
Tutorial written by: MomDad on #xbins EFNet (http://www.xbins.org)
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